Thursday, October 8, 2009

Week 6 - Individual vs Group Needs


Article:
http://www.channelnewsasia.com/stories/beautynfashion/view/1003568/1/.html


I believe many of you are familiar with this magazine and it requires no introduction, given that it is one of the best-selling magazines in recent decades.

What about this woman then?
Yes, she's Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of American Vogue(as seen above), and her name is often synonymous with ice queen or perfectionist.
Indeed, she has been the epitome of Vogue, ever since she joined the magazine in 1988.

Although there has been many criticism of her over the years, such as her demanding work attitude and ice-queen demeanor, the stunning results of her work as the editor-in-chief of American Vogue always put these criticism to rest. She is also often described as one of the most powerful and influential person in the fashion industry around the world.

Why is she able to reign over of this fashion bible for twenty-one years then? That's the amount of time I've been in this world. This is where individual and group needs come into play.

First, on individual need, which in this case, refers to Wintour's personal career goals. Joining American Vogue in 1988 is a big step for her career as a magazine editor, after working as a fashion editor for various magazines in both U.S.A and U.K. There is no doubt that Anna Wintour takes her job as the editor-in-chief seriously and in turn, it definitely satisfied her career goals by providing her with fame as well as power. Evaluation certainly took place where she continuously measures the benefits gained from being the editor-in-chief of this influential fashion magazine, in which she revived from an otherwise stagnant publication in 1988.
It is also no secret that she dictates what is hot and what is not, in the ever-changing fashion industry.

On the other hand, the publisher of the magazine(American Vogue), which is the group here, needs Wintour and her team in order to maintain their advertisement sales and magazine circulation. In this case, both the individual and group shares many similar goals, resulting in a harmonized effort to success.

However, collective rationalism usually takes place in the group, whereby sometimes they favor monetary benefits over more intangible factors such as image. It is in these situations that Wintour would act as the devil's advocate to ensure that the magazine's best interest is served. Though advertisers are very important to American Vogue - 727 out of 840 pages are advertisements in the September 2007 Issue - Wintour has declined the advertising offer of several firms on various occasions, as their products and services are not in sync with the magazine's image. This is probably one of the reasons why she is able to hold her position for over two decades and has no plans to step down anytime soon.

Lastly, for those who are interested to find out more about American Vogue or a more personal side of it's editor-in-chief, "The September Issue" would certainly be a great way to start.
Hope you enjoy it.


39 comments:

  1. a very good business point of view. i guess this portrays a truly successful business relationship which produces synergy and creates an icon in the fashion world - vogue. she's also famously portrayed in "devil wears prada" and "ugly betty"! the mean woman on top... that dictates fashion.

    i think the film's gonna be awesome! i'm sure people are dying to know the other side of anna wintour

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  2. Xiuli: Thanks for your comments.
    Meryl Streep's role in "The Devil Wears Prada" is definitely a parody of Anna Wintour and her magazine. Streep's portrayal of the uptight and demanding editor-in-chief of Runway is rather captivating.
    Though I'm certain much of "The September Issue" is edited or may be scripted, it still allows us a glimpse of Wintour's personal and work life. One thing is certain - I am looking forward to the show.

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  3. Wooot~ The woman who creates huge fashion waves in Hollywood.

    People look up to her, invest in time to read Vogue and follow closely the way the magazine had made those models look fabulous in styles never imagined before. For herself, to be able to stay at the helm of American Vogue, she certainly do possess the qualities of a true fashionista and leader of the other fashionistas.

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  4. It's not uncommon to hear people say that the fashion world revolves around Anna. She gets to decide what's passé and what's in for the upcoming season's collection.

    We all start from somewhere. We all conform to ideas that we can accept. Yet, it's a magazine, which has its direction dictated by Anna and her team of editors, that we follow - a form of mass media consumed by the general public. An average self-proclaimed fashionista, in search of expressing individualism through fashion, scrutinises through Vogue and is convinced by Anna's take. Surely, purple is so over, isn't it?

    What if one disagrees? Then he/she falls outside the circle of the social common identity. Being "accepted and approved" inside the circle intensifies the superiority complex expressed upon others. "Tsk, Tsk, he doesn't know anything about fashion." The irony is the majority of people who complains of the lack of individuality in others are the same people who are following the trends blindly.

    Always remember that you are unique, just like everyone else.

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  5. Yen Ling: Thanks for your comment.
    Anna Wintour certainly is a very fashionable lady. Just look at that immaculate bob of hers; never a strand of hair our of place. Apart from diligence(she wakes up at 6am everyday to play tennis and prepare herself for work), having a personal stylist and a USD200,000 a year clothing allowance definitely help create the Wintour we see today.

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  6. You-G: Thanks for your comment.
    I love your quote that emphasizes that we are all unique.
    Yes, it is for sure that Wintour, as the editor-in-chief of American Vogue, gets to choose what's fashionable and what's a has-been. Up and coming designers like Alexander Wang wouldn't get to where he is today without the help of Anna Wintour and Vogue.
    I believe that style is nurtured over time and magazines like Vogue gives us an idea of what is in for the season, sometimes through the eyes of the editor, other times through the fancy advertisements by many luxury labels. However, I believe that following trends blindly is no way to becoming a fashionable individual.
    Remember, fashion fades but style is eternal.

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  7. Anna Wintour sure is a driving force behind fashion. Everybody in the entertaiment industry is afraid to offend her for fear of never appearing on any of Conde Nast's covers. Yes, even though she's the editor-in-chief for Vogue, the boss of her company still listens to her. Well, maybe except for Madonna who rejected her.

    Great write up!

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  8. Chun Kiat: Thanks for your comment.
    Being in her position does give one many benefits that is outside of the job requirement. Money, fame, power and prestige are certainly bundled with the job title.
    As her publisher mentioned, American Vogue is always about Anna Wintour's idea, even though she probably has a very talented team with her. Although this may seem a little autocratic, but it seem to be getting the job done pretty well over the years.
    On a side note, I applaud Madonna for standing up for herself like she always do. But I guess only someone of her status would be able to pull off an act like this.

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  9. Hi Chris, Gerald here. I feel that every company definitely needs a devil's advocate for things to run efficiently and effectively. A lot of the companies development depends on the quality of the devil's advocate. For example, for magazines it is the editor in chief, for business companies it is the CEO and etc. These roles are usually the most stressful and yet are still the most sought after jobs the world around. They usually need to be "bitches" to get things to work for the "greater good".

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  10. Gerald: Thanks for your comment.
    I have to agree with you that being tough gets the work done. Someone has to be the 'bitch', thus, they are usually well-rewarded. People in the same group or working environment tend to slip into having the same mentality and it's hard for them to come up with fresh new ideas.
    I believe in this case, Wintour is able to hold on to her position for over 2 decades because she is very different from most people in the fashion industry. She has a keen eye for both style and fashion. After all, her job is to let the masses know what is considered fashionable for the month/season.

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  11. The success story of Anna Wintour sure does highlights the possibility of how one could make a big difference in how things are, in the present and future. But, just as how the Father of Singapore MM Lee has built up the nation from shraps of riots to the modern, firm and thriving country today, he did not do it alone; Anna may not have made her mark in the fashion industry if she hasnt received the reputational and financial backing from her father who founded the newspaper editor company which allowed her the much opportunities to expose herself to the fashion landscape, and the connections with the right people in the industry. However true that she was given a significant headstart in the editorial career, she could not have made such present-day highflying achievement if she hasnt been capable herself.

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  12. Hi Chris!

    Anna Wintour is seen as a successful and significant public figure not only in the fashion industry, but also in the world. She is a fashion icon! Without Anna Wintour, I guess nothing great will be accomplished compared to her works in this fashion world till this date.

    Yes, she is evil. However, without her, how will the fashion world turn out today? It is quite difficult to even imagine it. Credits still have to be given to Anna Wintour no matter what. I guess it is all because of her evil personality that helps her to become so successful and recognised in this world.

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  13. Hey hey. Gerald here.
    Well~ It's just me, but I don't think one woman should be able to hold that much power. It's quite scary. As well, I'm trying to imagine the number of people whom she trampled upon, on her way up, as much as the people that she brought down, just cause she wanted to deem it passe. Who knows.

    It's nice that she uses her abilities 'responsibly', ie.for the good of the magazine. Who knows what else she'd being in future. And who would be able to replace her, should anything happen.

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  14. CheekieManiac: Thanks for your comment.
    It's true that networking is important. It's not always just how good you are, but also who you know as well. Having the right connections and early exposure to publishing gave Anna Wintour a much desired advantage in her career. But like you said, she wouldn't got to where she is today if she didn't have what it takes.
    Another vital factor is to ensure that one is indispensable in the extremely fast-changing fashion and publication industry, and that's what many fail to achieve.

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  15. Charlene: Thanks for your comment.
    I believe no one is really indispensable, but the key is probably to ensure one is as close to that as possible, if one wishes to hold on to his or her position.
    The fashion world is very fickle and it's a challenge to stay on top of it all the time. In a world where people are obsessed with youth and beauty, no one would be able to conquer it forever. Yes, not even with the help of Botox.
    But luckily for Wintour, experience and networking is still very much valued for her position.

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  16. Gerald: thanks for you comment.
    We'd all be kidding ourselves if we think she didn't trampled on some others on her way to the top of the corporate ladder. I'm sure there were many designers she removed from the glossy pages of American Vogue, which in turn killed their careers.
    But that's part of her job isn't it? To put what she feels is the best on those pages millions of women(or even some men) read.
    What I'm concern with is that people tend to follow these trends blindly, even if they are endorsed by Anna Wintour. Is beauty or style only true when they appear in those glossy pages of American Vogue? What happened to uniqueness?

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  17. I do not agree that a single person will have the power to let the world of fashion to revolve under her control, even if that person is Anna Wintour. Beauty and style is very subjective.Something which look nice on you may have a different effect on another person. I feel that people should not be under the 'spell' of Anna Wintour, seeing everything that appears on Vogue as beauty. Instead they should find clothings or fashion accessories which suit themselves and bring out the uniqueness in them

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  18. yeah i think the pictures and the information provided in the post is good.

    you illustrated her decision to join a 'group' and you stated clearly that Wintour did her thing as a group and thus, today she has achieved success clearly due to that.

    keep it up.

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  19. Sian: Thanks for your comments.
    I do agree that people should have a greater sense of self when it comes to their own dressing. But it's really hard to have a differing view of beauty when beauty has always been what we see in the magazines. Tall, thin, flawless people wearing beautifully crafted clothes. As much as we try to think we're not as shallow as that, such images of what constitutes beauty is usually deeply rooted in our minds.

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  20. I think she's just a face of the magazine, just like how Steve Jobs represents Apple. Behind the scenes, there is an incredible amount of work done by thousands of people, not mentioning hundreds of rejected ideas, and unrecognised effort. people don't see these when reading the magazine, and only Miss Editor in Chief gets the credit.
    I guess the same thing happens everywhere in our lives. Dont you think so?

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  21. Leet Sern: Thanks for your comment.
    Excelling in a group is usually what success is all about in the corporate world. But what I want to highlight is that Anna Wintour did not conform to the group thinking but instead had a very clear mind of her own, which is the reason why she's successful today. She's unafraid to speak her mind when it comes to getting work done and avoiding mediocrity.

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  22. Hi hi, Trevor here, I believe that the entire fashion industry or the concept of fashion itself cannot be allowed to just revolve around one magazine or even more absurd, one woman. What is fashionable or not is such a subjective point of view that defers from person to person, country to country, and even culture to culture. Ok, Anna might think that this or that is fashionable, and she is definitely free to publish her thoughts for us as a reference or give us tips, of which she might as well rename “Vogue” as “Anna” then, because she’ll never consider the ideas of others anyway, but it is definitely not right for us to use it as a fashion sutra.

    I think her attitude is rather unnecessary though; yes it is great for a top level executive to be firm and decisive, but cold and heartless?? I know society is cynical nowadays, but I believe that put in the shoes of employees or people she has mistreated, or lives she has ruined, there’s certainly no benevolence at all. It sure pays to be kind, it doesn’t mean you have to be soft, but at least be a human and have some EQ. In fact, I believe having a good boss-subordinate relationship is crucial for organizations to have good performance and high morale.

    I don’t buy the fact that she’s really the person she portrays herself to be deep inside, it’s most probably just an act or facade to show the world just how “unique” and “special” she is, like what many famous people do to be remembered and recognized. She may be rich and powerful now, but I personally believe in just desserts.

    More and more people are realizing that the world of “thin stick models” and “beautiful faces” are just fantasy, cause most of the world are not like that, we want a more realistic picture of everything, think of the highly welcomed “Dove” soap commercial, which portrayed “real” people instead of perhaps digitally altered models, unless we are celebrities with rich, famous and lavish lives, of which a huge majority of the world is not, then it’s different story…

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  23. Trevor: Thanks for your very detailed comments.
    I agree with you that EQ is very important, be it at work or any other circumstances. I personally don't think Anna Wintour is a mean person, probably just a perfectionist, given the way she speaks. I guess the only problem is that she may make one feel very incompetent if you give her sub-standard work. However, as a boss, I believe it is exactly this kind of attitude that will produce fantastic results in the end, even though others may think you are 'cold'.
    But in many modern societies, especially the United States, results are all that people or businesses care about. The end justify the means, isn't it?

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  24. Adrian: thanks for your comment.
    Sorry that I skipped pass your comment earlier.
    Certainly, Anna Wintour does not do most of the writing anymore. In fact, she only writes the Editor's note nowadays. Thus, most of the 'real work' is probably done by a very talented group of people that isn't as recognized as her. Sadly, this is usually true in most large corporations around the globe.
    Which is why I feel it's not only how good you are at your job, but it's also who you know and how you plan to get to where you want. I guess that's the difference between a JOB and a CAREER, where the latter requires much careful planning.

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  25. Anna Wintour sure is a tough woman. Being able to hold on to such power in the world of fashion definitely says alot about this domineering lady. I bet the team under her works extremely hard to meet the expectations that the world has set out for Vogue.

    While Vogue prospers in today's fasionable, hedonistic world, I find that these fashion magazines tend to shift people's perspective of what beauty is. Is beauty determined by what Anna Wintour deems is beautiful for the month's issue? People always strive to catch up with trends and fashion, that they end up losing their individuality along the way.

    I wouldn't be surprised if an editor-in-chief like Anna Wintour decided to say one day, "I think that bright yellow, cross gartered stockings look good." And the next thing you see is everybody walking around looking like they left the "Shakespearan Elizabethan Mall" meant only for characters like Romeo and Malvolio.

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  26. Audrey: thanks for your comment.
    I agree with what you mentioned. What is beauty really? I don't think there is anyone who can give us an exact definition, though most of us have more or less the same idea of what beauty is due to influence from the mass media and our own culture. Come on, don't pretend that you really think beauty isn't about physical appearance. It may not be the ONLY factor, but it certainly is a MAJOR one.
    However, while those glossy pages of Vogue may not be able to show us what is beautiful, it does show us what is trendy.
    But do note that trendy isn't always beautiful.

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  27. Beauty's in the eye of the beholder, sadly in the modern age, this does not hold true anymore. Rather, beauty's what people want you to believe it is. Such is the power of advertisments that it is able to shape beliefs, cultures and society as a whole.
    If advertisment was a human, it would come in the shape of Anna. such is the power of one woman to change the mindset of the whole society of men and women, similar to that of advertising propagandas.

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  28. Kevin: thanks for your comment.
    It's a very good point that you brought up. Our idea of what beauty is, is often the results of marketing strategies of companies in the fashion/cosmetics industry. Flawless skin, shiny hair and svelte figure, are just some features of a 'beautiful' person. I believe that physical beauty is deemed the same in most modern societies, all thanks for mass media. But for fashion trends, it can really vary a lot from season to season. Who knows, what is considered awful now may be the hottest trend 5 years later.

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  29. Whenever I read any article on Anna Wintour, it totally reminds me of Miranda Priestly from The Devil's Wears Prada. Well, not surprising as the author who wrote the book (if i'm not wrong) was Anna's former personal assistant. I personally admire her ice-queen personality. It really shows the amount of confidence she has in her work and strong believe she has in her taste of fashion, being the leader of such a huge coperation (and a highly manupliative industry), one needs to be firm on her ideals and visions to lead. However, I'm worried for Vogue if Anna ever steps down as the editor-in-chief, would the successor still be as capable and have what it takes to be the decision-maker for Fashion? When CEOs (in this case the chief editor) stay on too long, they could end up destorying value in a company.

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  30. Its similar as WANTS vs NEEDS.

    There is always a thin line of similarity but yet there is also a vast difference in both.

    Anna Wintour Zig Ziggler Anthony Robbins they are just some of those people who truly can change nothing into something : )

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  31. Anonymous: Thanks for your comments =)
    It's a very good point that you brought up there. It may be hard to find someone as capable to replace Anna Wintour if she ever chooses to leave Vogue or retire. However, I believe the problem doesn't lie in her successor not having a keen eye for fashion trends, but more so, the lack of social networks and reputation.
    In a way, Vogue has been the fashion bible because Anna Wintour is still it's editor-in-chief. People who reads it religiously believes in her and not necessarily the magazine itself.
    However, on a more optimistic note, I believe there is no one in world that we all can't do without, no matter how great he or she was. And this is even more so for the fickle-minded fashion industry.

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  32. Aaron: thanks for your comment.
    I agree with what you say. The aim of these magazines is definitely not just to tell its readers what is hot for the month/season. It also alter their views and changes many things that were previously 'want' into 'need'.
    "How can you not have a Little Black Dress in your closet?" or "We definitely need more basic pieces to mix and match".
    Even if these magazines may not be able to dictate what we choose to wear or buy in the end, they certainly dictates what we think about when it comes to fashion, whether or not you are a reader.

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  33. Woa i guessed Anna Wintour being the chief editor of VOGUE (Keep in mind that its VOGUE and not any other magazine) is one who is an effective leader but who engages in task related personality traits, meaning that the way she works is closely associated with task accomplishment rather then through general personality traits of being warm and enthusiastic and approachable and all wth her being named an ice queen?

    By the way, great post you have there.

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  34. Oh and i forgot to add,i really think Anna is a great great effective leader. The fashion industry is one which has to undergo constant changes. Change to people is often resisted or uncomfortable to them. Working in a fashion industry would however mean the need to cope with rapid change, the need to make group/team members feel competent and confident and to make decisions alone in that ambiguous and uncertain environment world of fashion. I really really applaud Anna for her success in leading VOGUE amidst all these challenges!

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  35. Alison: thank you for your comments.
    There is no doubt that Anna Wintour is a great leader and a very efficient worker herself. Such diligence can be seen in both her work and personal life. She wakes up at 6am to play tennis and have breakfast for goodness sake. Even I don't wake up so early for school.
    Though we may not really know if she's a really task-oriented boss or simply a mean one, at least she manages to prove herself at work with fabulous issues of Vogue every month.
    One thing I'm concern about is that if there is anyone in the industry now that dares to criticize her or her work, without worrying about being condemned?

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  36. Besides being a effective and strong leader, an individualist like Anna and Vogue(Group) shows how one can benefit by working hand in hand. The result is proven in the monthly issue of Vogue magazine.

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  37. Kester: Thanks for your comments.
    I believe that both the individual(Wintour) and group(Vogue) are gaining what they need from each other, which is why she is still the editor-in-chief of American Vogue after two decades. When you think of Anna Wintour, Vogue will probably be the first thing that comes to mind, or perhaps perfectionistic ice queen. Her name has already become a synonym with the magazine she worked to build all these years.

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  38. From another perspective, do you think ice queen is her true nature? I think it is mostly portrayed in relations to her work field, but I believe outside of it, she is as wonderful a person as all of us. =D

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  39. Clouds: thanks for your comments.
    I agree with you about it though we can never be sure of anything anymore nowadays. I believe she is not evil by nature, but her demanding attitude at work, which is also the reason for her success in her career, is interpreted by many to be an ice queen. Having such a facade may make others fear her more, thus, resulting in her having more power at work.

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